How To Install The Non Quick Install Pushrods

[Tbones]

I was going to have another contest but I figured I'd just tell and show folks how to install the non quick install pushrods like the Baisley's that I showed in the other thread...

The normal way to install these types of pushrods is to remove the seat, gas tank and then remove the upper rockerbox cover and then the rocker arm assemblies... I will show another way to do this that does not involve removing the rocker box cover and assembly...

I'm going to have my trainee take pictures as I install these pushrods so you will be able to see and I'll explain what your looking at and how to do this... You can't do this with Evo's because the tappet blocks are too high... The lifters are installed in the EVO tappet blocks from the bottom side whereas the TC's lifters drop into the tappet block that is part of the engine case...

By installing the pushrods like I will show, it will cut the time to change out your stock one piece pushrods to the better adjustables that are not the quick install type... As I stated in the other thread, the quick install pushrods make me nervous, I prefer to use the non quick install pushrods but the biggest hassle with them is the time it takes to install them... I will show you that you can install the non quick install pushrods in less than an hour start to finish... Stay tuned ...

[Doc]

Ohhh!!! Its like X-mas!! Looking forward!!!

[Jaystronghawk]

Definitely Keeping my eye on this one ..

[Hobbit]

watching and waiting

[Tbones]

Ok bro's as promised, here is how you can install non quick install pushrods like the Baisley's without having to remove the seat, gas tank, rocker box covers and rocker assemblies... Flat rate for this job is 2.6 hrs, you can do this job in less than an hour start to finish...

Ok, here is a picture of the JIMS quick install pushrods vs the Baisley pushrods. The JIMS adjuster is now equal to the Baisley, this is just the start point, you have to turn the adjuster about another quarter inch to adjust the tappets... Even though I haven't heard of these type of pushrods failing, it still makes me nervous that the pushrod adjuster is extended so far out of the pushrod... I prefer the Baisley's or pushrods that are similar to it...

Ok, well I can't get the pic's to work right but what you see here is the start of the job with everything laid out... The exhaust pushrods are a lil longer than the intakes and they are labeled on the pushrods... Exhaust pushrods are longer because they have the longest throw and the steepest angle from the lifter to the rocker arm...

You want to turn the motor over until both lifters are at the same height and as low as they will go... Then you feed the pushrods thru the lifter blocks along with the pushrod tubes and the tappet block gasket and feed the entire assembly into the motor... It takes some fenessing around but the pushrods will go in...

So there you have it boys, how to install adjustable non quick install pushrods without having to remove the rocker box assembly... This will save you a lot of time... Again, you cannot use this technique on EVO's because the tappet blocks are too high but on TC motors, it's a snap ...


Pushrod Install_002.jpgPushrod Install_001.jpgPushrod Install_006.jpgPushrod Install_004.jpgPushrod Install_008.jpgPushrod Install_007.jpgPushrod Install_012.jpgPushrod Install_013.jpgPushrod Install_015.jpgPushrod Install_011.jpgPushrod Install_017.jpg

Pushrod Install_016.jpg

[Bagger]

Great stuff T.!Anything you can add about determining top dead center, the strokes, lifter bleed or thread count for various aftermarket products?

[Tbones]

Great stuff T.!Anything you can add about determining top dead center, the strokes, lifter bleed or thread count for various aftermarket products?

I can tell folks how I do things... Wrenches have their own way of doing things, these are just what I was taught and have used for a long time

The only time I use the Top Dead Center (TDC) method is when I'm wanting to remove the rockerarm assembly... Here's how I do it;

1. Remove spark plugs
2. Jack the rear wheel up and place the bike in top gear
3. Rotate the motor with the rear wheel while holding my finger over spark plug hole for the cylinder that I'm going to work on first until I feel pressure (compression)... Then I use a pencil or pen and place it in the spark plug hole and continue to rotate the motor until I see the pen or pencil top out... This puts me pretty close to top dead center without using a dial indicator...
4. When the piston is at TDC of it's compression stroke, the valves for that cylinder will both be closed and on the lowest part of the cam lobe (the heel)... This takes the pressure off the rockerarms and valves so you can remove the rocker arm assemly.
5. Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder...

For adjusting valves this is the method I use;

1. Remove the spark plugs.
2. Jack the rear wheel up and put the tranny in top gear.
3. Remove the pushrod tube clips.
4. Collapse the pushrod tubes.
5. Using two clothes pins, I clip one clothes pin to the front cylinder intake pushrod and the other clothes pin to the rear cylinder intake pushrod.
6. Rotate the motor while observing the front intake pushrod goes up. Stop rotating the motor when the front intake is at it's highest point.
(Because the front and rear cylinder cams will be 180 degree's off, when the front intake is at it's highest point, that means the tappet (lifter) is riding on the top of the cam lobe. The rear intake is now at the lowest point, that means the tappet (lifter) is riding on the lowest part (heel) of the cam lobe.
7. Adjust the rear intake per the manufacturers specification for the pushrod/lifter combination.
8. Once the rear intake is adjusted, let it sit for 15 minutes until the lifter bleeds down or until you can spin the pushrod with your fingers... DO NOT rotate the motor until the rear intake lifter has bled off or you will damge your pushrods and/or valve.
9. Rotate the motor while observing the rear intake pushrod goes up. Stop rotating the motor when the rear intake is at it's highest point.
10. Adjust the front intake per the manufacturers specification for the pushrod/lifter combination.
11. Repeat step 8.
12. Remove the clothes pins and put on clothes pin on the front exhaust pushrod and the other clothes pin on the rear exhaust pushrod.
13. Repeat steps 6, 7 and 8 for the exhaust valves.

Not all pushrods are the same, they have different thread pitches so you need to follow the manufacturers instructions for their pushrod or if you have a thread gauge, figure out how many threads per inch the adjuster is... Not all lifters are the same as far as how far the piston inside the lifter is depressed inside the tappet body...

Here's what I did to determine the proper adjustment for the Fueling lifters using the Baisley pushrods... The Fueling lifters require that the proper adjustment be between .090" and .100" which is approximately half the distance the piston will travel before it bottoms out in the tappet... First, I used a vernier caliper and adjusted it to show .100". Then I put the pushrod in my vice and turned the upper portion of the pushrod counter clockwise, rising it up from the first lock nut. I used a sharpie to mark one of the flats so I could keep track of how many full turns I made to reach .100". To get .100" with the Baisley pushrods, I had to turn three full turns or 18 flats. Once I knew this, then I knew how many turns to turn on the pushrod adjuster nut... When you adjust any valve, you have to start your adjustment at zero lash (no up and down or side to side movement of the pushrod). Once you have your pushrod at zero lash then you turn the adjuster nut the number of times required to adjust the piston inside the tappet... Again, not all pushrods and lifters are the same so follow their directions... For example, the JIMS hydrosolids only require turning the adjuster nut 5 to 7 flats after zero lash... So make sure you understand what the proper adjustment is for the lifter you are using and how many flat or turns you have to make with whatever pushrod you are using to achieve the proper adjustment...

That's bout it ... There are other ways of adjusting valves, this is just how I do it... I've never bent a pushrod or valve or ruined a lifter by adjusting the valves as I've state here... Goodluck, take your time and have fun ... Take care... T

[Jaystronghawk]

Great post T This thread should made a Sticky ...

[Bagger]

Hey T. thanks for taking the time to post such a great thread.Hope you don't mind that we did in fact make this thread a sticky.It's threads like this that will push our garage to the next level.Guys, if you find yourself wrenching on your scoot, take some pic's and post them up.

[ultrat]

Thank You sir;; I like learning ;'';