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  1. #21
    Road Warrior 2fasteddie's Avatar

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by UC Wayne Click here to enlarge
    That's exactly what I have!
    They did mine back in 2009. That's when they would cut the baffle out wiith hole saw and weld straight through core in them. They quit offering that service. I guess some kind of legal liability involved with altering mufflers.
    Click here to enlarge
    "Don't own up to anything. That's like saying you did it."

  2. #22
    Senior Member Joel's Avatar

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    Great way to tamper with the cats, seems much better than cut the pipe in 2 than hope it is aligned properly when welding it back together, as long as the bike never needs a smog test, I say take those hot momas out
    Always keep 2 feet away from your shadow

  3. #23
    New Prospect rdnkjeeper's Avatar

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    How long did it take you? Thinking about maybe taking mine out this weekend!

  4. #24
    Iron Butt smitty901's Avatar

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rdnkjeeper Click here to enlarge
    How long did it take you? Thinking about maybe taking mine out this weekend!
    Just did one. I had a set of headers I picked up took about 10 minutes to cut the door into header about 30 minutes to break out the CATS and scrape it all down. Welding took about 30 minutes.
    I picked up a set of headers because I wanted to keep my stock ones just in case I ever need to put it back to stock.
    Dianne Feinstein:
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  5. #25
    New Prospect rdnkjeeper's Avatar

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    Sweet....So I should be able to do it in a weekend. Does the cat have to be TIGed? Or would a MIG work? I don't see why a Mig wouldn't work.....

  6. #26
    Iron Butt smitty901's Avatar

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rdnkjeeper Click here to enlarge
    Sweet....So I should be able to do it in a weekend. Does the cat have to be TIGed? Or would a MIG work? I don't see why a Mig wouldn't work.....
    I have been told that TIG is the way to weld it back up. Now if this was 10 years ago I would have done it with a stick but times change.
    Even with the trap door you need to go easy or you can still wrap the pipes so tack it good and work different sides at first.
    I know from past work the removal and install on the bike if you do it right takes about two hours with correct tools
    The CAT is like a honey cone if you work carefully where it is fused to the pipe a bit at a time it is easier to get out.
    I know some will disagree but anytime I remove exhaust I use new gaskets and clamps, I learned long ago the hard way nothing worst than saving a few buck just to do the job over .

    Your going to want to add some fuel. The Pipes flow freer with CATS out the pipes were opened up a bit to make up for the restriction of the Cats. So it is going to sound better also.
    This is on my 2011 RGU 103. I had the HD download Calibration 41000103 done in advance.
    It is the Street legal download for the 110 . This download makes the 103 with a good stage 1 run nice.
    Last edited by smitty901; 04-06-2012 at 08:43 PM.
    Dianne Feinstein:
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  7. #27
    New Prospect rdnkjeeper's Avatar

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    Cool, thanks for the tips. If for some reason the mig won't work, I'll have to find someone to tig it for me.

  8. #28
    New Prospect gregk239's Avatar

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    Did you have to do anything with the computer for tuning?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by UC Wayne Click here to enlarge
    I recently bought a used header pipe for my ultra with the intent of conducting a “catectomy”. Here are some pics and a description of what and how I accomplished it.

    First , I made the cuts across the area of the header where the cats are, using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I didn’t need to have the cuts quite so far apart, but I wanted to insure that I had room to get into the cavity once it was opened up.

    Attachment 10334


    Next I made the cuts lengthwise along the cat area.

    Attachment 10332

    Be cautious when you cut near the mounting bracket. You can see here where I nicked it slightly.

    Attachment 10333

    Once the cuts were complete, I pried the cut out off with a large screwdriver to expose the cats.

    Attachment 10338

    This is where it gets fun!! I took a chisel and hammer and started chiseling out the cat material. I don’t know for sure, but have read on a couple other places, that this material is very hazardous. The edges are extremely sharp, so I definitely recommend using gloves while doing this.

    Attachment 10336


    Once I got all the cat material out, I just scraped it as best as I could with the chisel and a putty knife. I figured that if I couldn’t scrape it out, I wouldn’t have to worry about it coming loose later.

    Attachment 10335

    This last pic is looking into the end of the header to where the cats were.

    Attachment 10337

    The next thing I did was to take it over to a friend’s house and tig weld it all back together. Then I came home, removed the OEM header and replaced it with my new “catless” header.

    As a part of my stage 1, I also purchased a 2” re-core kit from Fullsac, and installed those also.

    My first ride was up to Brunswick yesterday to meet JoeSombody. (About 100 miles round trip)

    The amount of heat that is NOT there anymore is absolutely amazing!

    The next step in the stage 1 mod is to install the Dobeck Gen 4, and a heavy breather. Hopefully that will happen this weekend. I’ll take pics of that and post them up too.

  9. #29
    "Did you have to do anything with the computer for tuning? "

    Greg, At the same time, as I did this, I added the 2" Re-core kit from Fullsac. It ran much better and a hell of a lot cooler!!
    Wayne
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  10. #30
    Forum Leader WT Wizard's Avatar

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    Great info.....I did mine yesterday....took me 2 hours....I did cheat and left the pipes installed....covered the bike with blankets.....worked great the hardest part was scrapping the cat out....I did weld the pipes using a mig welder not a tig....worked great......nice sound a lot less heat. Thanks for the post and pics

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